好聲音響系統配方 2005 版 / DIY 線材篇

家用音響系統, 訊源、音響、家庭劇院、音響觀念等音響系統討論專區。

好聲音響系統配方 2005 版 / DIY 線材篇

文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 8:16 am

好聲音響系統配方 2005 版 / DIY 線材篇

線材看似簡單 , 其實是有一些道理的 . 當我們知道一些設計上的理念後 ,用廉價的 DIY 線材得到好聲音並不是很困難的事 .

我是個懶人 , 所以我的推薦內沒有煩人的編織 . 但是編織適當的線材效果可以是很好的 .

這是幾年來我蒐集各方資料 , 並且經過個人實際使用以及通過時間考驗的器材 . 這些都不是我個人的原創設計 , 我只是一個開心的使用者 , 並且希望更多人可以省點錢 , 多聽點音樂 .

原來的設計者 / 設計網頁都寫在文章裡 , 有需要請多多利用 .





訊號線篇

VH Fine Silver Interconnect

http://www.venhaus1.com/diysilverinterconnects.html

These Fine Silver Interconnects recently bested a set of well known $800+ interconnects at "WADStock" in Maidenhead , U.K.







喇叭線篇

Audio Asylum / Audio Sold 銅箔/銀箔喇叭線

http://www.audiosold.com/articles/specables.htm

使用高級喇叭內的銅箔電感來當作喇叭線 .

把 skin effect 當成優點來用.

注意 : 這種喇叭線不要做太長, 約兩米內比較好, 不然可能對器材不好.
圖檔
這是剛買回來的銅箔電感的長相 .


圖檔
放在桌上 , 把他切開 , 攤平 .


圖檔
剪出你需要的長度 .

不需要外面的披覆 , 裸線的聲音最好 .
氧化 ? 這麼便宜每六個月一年換一次就好了嘛 : )

J@ck 註 :
注意 : 若正負短路, 可能對器材造成重大的傷害.
我膽子沒這麼大 , 我是用衛生紙/棉紙/宣紙先輕輕包一層 , 再用膠帶輕輕繞幾圈 .
也有試過把這銅箔塞在水管裡 , 然後用熱融膠封住兩端 , 不過這銅箔蠻脆弱的 , 太麻煩了 .



圖檔
不需要任何香蕉插 , Y 插 …etc, 裸線聲音最好 .


圖檔
成品使用圖 .

這是 Morrow Audio 的實際使用情形 .
注意 : 若正負短路, 可能對器材造成重大的傷害.
注意 : 這種喇叭線不要做太長, 約兩米內比較好, 不然可能對器材不好.

This is how we have them in the Morrow Audio listening
room hooked up to the Morrow Audio 300B1 Mono Blocks.
Notice how we have arranged the wire where it will not
short. Enjoy!
最後由 MoLtoSoLo 於 週三 1月 19, 2005 2:06 am 編輯,總共編輯了 3 次。
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章palchiu 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 9:41 am

多謝MoLtoSoLo找出這些文章, 有空就來做兩條試試.

DIY is Fun!
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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文章andyaries 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 12:36 pm

* 1/4" 粗 , 1/32" 壁厚的鐵弗隆管子 / 水管 Teflon tubing.
* 28 gauge 銀線 , 最好是鐵弗隆或是棉質的絕緣披覆 .
* 水管工用的鐵弗隆膠帶三四捲 .

可以稍微描敘一下這些材料的樣子嗎? 有圖片當然更好
因為弟我並沒有看過...也不知道去哪找(我是在台中啦)
(除了有註明水管的...應該到水電行可以買到吧?)

又 那銅箔/銀箔喇叭線...在音響店買得到嗎?
因為我好像沒有在一般的電材行有看到耶...

會太煩的話...請小小見諒囉 :bs:
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文章palchiu 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 12:50 pm

鐵弗龍管跟膠帶可以在膠料行找的到.
28 AWG銀線比較不好找, 價格也比較高.
電子材料行應該找的到銅箔, 沒有請老闆代購吧.
嫌銅箔不好玩, 可以去銀樓買金箔或銀箔試試! :worship: 期待...
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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文章rogerpan 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 12:56 pm

銅箔電感不便宜。
rogerpan
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 1:29 pm

要說明一下的是這並不是只是做法簡單便宜的訊號線/喇叭線.
這是非常優異的訊號線/喇叭線的做法.
訊號線號稱曾輕易打敗價值 $800 USD 的英國廠線, 稍稍改版的成品也被視為任何價位的佼佼者.
喇叭線就更出名了, 曾在 Audio Asylum 中被熱烈討論了三四年, 發展出種種變形.

用銅箔電感的目的就是因為質很純, 而且一個電感可以做好多對, 比較起來相當便宜. 買約一吋寬的就可以了.
注意 : 這種喇叭線不要做太長, 約兩米內比較好, 不然可能對器材不好.
我等這些用完了就想試試銀箔電感.

這些東西音響店大概都會有.
真的找不到, 去補料店 (eg. X竹...) 一定有.
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章andyaries 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 3:46 pm

palchiu 寫:鐵弗龍管跟膠帶可以在膠料行找的到.
28 AWG銀線比較不好找, 價格也比較高.
電子材料行應該找的到銅箔, 沒有請老闆代購吧.
嫌銅箔不好玩, 可以去銀樓買金箔或銀箔試試! :worship: 期待...

蝦咪!?!?
還有膠料行這種店喔
弟真的太
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文章ijaywu 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 8:12 pm

為什麼不用銅箔膠帶?
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文章三倍速野狼 發表於 週一 1月 17, 2005 8:50 pm

palchiu 寫:多謝MoLtoSoLo找出這些文章, 有空就來做兩條試試.

DIY is Fun!


有種nordost扁平線的感覺
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文章palchiu 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 1:43 pm

我也翻出一些有關訊號線及電源線的舊文章, 給像我一樣的新手看看.

http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/cabling ... aad_1.html

http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/cabling/uk_4play_1.html

Litz 線的做法, 有圖片說明
http://www.chimeralabs.com/diy_braid.html

AWG 的線徑表
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


DIY is Fun!
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 7:36 pm

palchiu 寫:我也翻出一些有關訊號線及電源線的舊文章, 給像我一樣的新手看看.

http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/cabling ... aad_1.html

http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/cabling/uk_4play_1.html

Litz 線的做法, 有圖片說明
http://www.chimeralabs.com/diy_braid.html

AWG 的線徑表
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm


DIY is Fun!


手工編織線對我 一個大困難.
就是無法保證每一條線的長度是一樣的,
在編織過程中總是會有有的線走長一點, 有的走短一點,
這樣當長度到了一個程度之後對聲音的影響不小,
一般說來是混濁沒有焦聚.
不知道有沒有比較好的方法可以避免這種狀況 ?
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章foo 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 7:50 pm

先剪成一樣長再編阿
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文章palchiu 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 7:54 pm

在編線的同時, 就要不時地檢查末端線長是否相同. 如果長短不一, 就要在編織完成的部份稍微拉動較長的那條線調整鬆緊度. 這是做美髮的老婆教我的! :D
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 7:55 pm

foo 寫:先剪成一樣長再編阿


可是編到完的時候長度會不一樣,
每一次拉緊的力道, 每一個空隙都一定要一樣,
到最後要重編嗎? 還是剪掉?

palchiu 寫:在編線的同時, 就要不時地檢查末端線長是否相同. 如果長短不一, 就要在編織完成的部份稍微拉動較長的那條線調整鬆緊度. 這是做美髮的老婆教我的! :D


這就有道理了,
不過這種事還是機器比較強. :D
(我有是過用美髮的編辫子器, 但是那玩意不太夠力...)
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章palchiu 發表於 週二 1月 18, 2005 8:03 pm

拿給會綁黑人頭的美髮小妹, 一米長的線五分鐘就好了. 又快又漂亮!
:ya:
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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文章andyaries 發表於 週三 1月 19, 2005 9:46 pm

:( 我昨天在台中電子街問了一下...
要嘛不是沒有 不然就是連啥是銅箔電感都不知道...
一直跟我強調電感就只是電感(用漆包線繞的那種) :mad:


誰知道台中去哪找銅箔電感啊 :aa:
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文章YY 發表於 週五 1月 21, 2005 7:33 pm

MoLtoSoLo 寫:手工編織線對我 一個大困難.
就是無法保證每一條線的長度是一樣的,
在編織過程中總是會有有的線走長一點, 有的走短一點,
這樣當長度到了一個程度之後對聲音的影響不小,
一般說來是混濁沒有焦聚.
不知道有沒有比較好的方法可以避免這種狀況 ?


如果是同線徑的線,在編織上還算容易,只要先把一端固定住(可找人幫忙拉著),一邊編一邊調整到很緊(我比較喜歡編緊的聲音),幾乎不會有問題,應該不會有任何一股會有剩下。

會有大問題的是不同線徑的搭配,試了幾萬元的銀線後,還是會覺得聲音對焦不夠凝聚 :x 最後採用另一種李茲線的製法──用螺旋方式將線絞緊,不過這用在電源線上比較好。
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週一 2月 07, 2005 1:00 am

我又找到一個很類似, 但是有改進的做法.
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/view ... 13&start=0
其中使用繩子的做法真是天才, 又方便, 又實用.
我作的試作品是用 teflon Cat5 的線.
不是最好的材料但是效果相當不錯.
很值得參考.


Ulas 寫:I have two versions of ICs made with conductors of Cardas tonearm wire (33awg copper litz) terminated with Eichmann RCA plugs. I prefer either of these ICs to any of the 20 DIY ICs I have tried as well as commercial offerings from cheapskate to cost-no-object.

Both are low capacitance measuring around 3 pF/ft. Pictures are posted at http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modu ... 59&op=modl ... and brief construction details follow. These ICs are unshielded and are not be suitable for use in high EMI/RFI environments.

Version 1: The wire is woven into a strand of polypropylene hollow braid (water ski rope). This IC is very robust (it’s made of rope!) but it looks kind of funky.

For each IC you will need: One length of 3/8” polypropylene hollow braid; Two lengths of wire, each 1.075 times the length of the rope plus 4 inches; One pair of RCA plugs.

Remove the blue plastic barrels from the RCA plugs; remove the setscrews from the barrels. Thread the barrels on the ends of the rope.

Using the flame of a match, melt and fuse the strands of polypropylene at the end of the rope. When done correctly, this will form a collar that will just squeeze through the threaded end of the barrel but not pass through the narrow end. (The fusing operation may require some practice.)

One wire is woven in and out exactly following the path of a right-spiraling strand of polypropylene; the other wire follows the path of a left-spiraling strand. After weaving, except for its size and color, the wire should be indistinguishable from any of the polypropylene filaments. It is easiest to start weaving from the middle of the rope and work to each end where wire is tucked into the center of the braid and passed through the hole in the fused collar.

Tin and solder the wires to the RCA plug. Work quickly and use a RCA jack as a heat sink; too much heat will melt the plug.

Screw the barrel onto the plug; insert and tighten the setscrew. The fused polypropylene collar provides strain relief against pulling and the setscrew prevents twisting.

Version 2: The wire is suspended in a lattice of Teflon tubes. This IC looks exotic and it is more fragile than the other.

For each IC you will need: Four lengths of 15awg Teflon tubing, each 1.035 times the length of the finished IC; Two lengths of wire, each the same length as a tube plus 4 inches; One pair of RCA plugs.

Thread each wire through an empty tube. Plat the tubes in a square sinnet such that the two wire-filled tubes crisscross each other in the same plane while the empty tubes crisscross in an orthogonal plane.

Start with the four tubes alternating filled and empty and repeat the following sequence until done.

Take the leftmost tube and cross it OVER its TWO neighbors.
Take the rightmost tube and cross it OVER its ONE neighbor.
Take the leftmost tube and cross it UNDER its TWO neighbors.
Take the rightmost tube and cross it UNDER its ONE neighbor.

Tin and solder the wires to the RCA plug. Work quickly and use a RCA jack as a heat sink; too much heat will melt the plug. A few dabs of hot glue applied to the tubes where they exit the barrel will secure them to the plug. Finish it off with some heat shrink.
_________________
System
最後由 MoLtoSoLo 於 週一 2月 07, 2005 1:13 am 編輯,總共編輯了 3 次。
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週一 2月 07, 2005 1:10 am

電源線也有很棒的參考.
The 'Sarah Lee" approach to Power Cords
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/view ... hp?t=15325

這種線台灣應該很多吧?
我有兩條, 相當不錯.
比送的線好, 比我作的 Bona 560, ProCo 13-8 平衡.
http://www.carlton-bates.com/11th_Edition/528.pdf
最後由 MoLtoSoLo 於 週二 2月 08, 2005 9:15 pm 編輯,總共編輯了 1 次。
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章MoLtoSoLo 發表於 週一 2月 07, 2005 1:32 am

tightly braided - higher capacitance; lower inductance - 適合喇叭線
loosely braided or unbraided - lower capacitance; higher inductance - 適合訊號線

可是如果喇叭線的 capacitance 太高, 對擴大機是很大的負擔. (可能會燒掉.)
J@ck 將是我的新名字, 將於二月份新年後開始使用.
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文章yungcros 發表於 週二 2月 08, 2005 6:40 pm

請問一下各位,台北那裡買的到上面的電源線呢?
謝謝! :ya:
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文章J@ck 發表於 週四 2月 10, 2005 10:16 am

這個也可以參考參考.

http://www.soundstage.com/synergize/synergize021998.htm
圖檔


Greg Weaver 寫:February 1998

Silver Signal Tape
An Under $20 Home Brew KILLER Interconnect!

You should know that my third audio axiom is "Wires are components." That said, some time ago I got frustrated with the bucks I would have to shell out to get wires that sounded great. So, one day way back in the spring of 1988, brother audiophobe Matt Eggleston and I embarked on an experiment to build great sounding interconnects for the handful of bucks we had available to us. It would seem that Matt and his father had done some similar experiments back in Matt’s childhood with remarkable success. This seems to be one of those "cyclic" DIY ideas that comes and goes through each new generation of audiophobe. But hey, what do you say we ninety-ize it?

My first trials were done with magnet wire, which is simply single conductor copper wire which has been coated with enamel as an insulating material. This type of wire is commonly used to wind coils for electric motors and inductors. The easiest place to find magnet wire is at your local Radio Shack. Some electric supply houses carry it, but I chose to save time and purchased the Radio Shack Magnet Wire pack (Cat. No. 278-1345a) which contains one 40' spool of 22 AWG, one 75' spool of 26 AWG and one 200' spool of 30 AWG, all for a grand total of $3.99. No doubt because of all my recent hang time with Pierre Sprey of Mapleshade Productions, and all his harping on the idea that "thinner is better," I used the 30 gauge (the bigger the number, the thinner the wire) magnet wire for my experiments - with superlative results!

I abandoned using the cheapest male RCA terminations available, as I had in the past. Since I was there, I opted for the Radio Shack entry level gold plated male RCA terminations (Cat. No. 274-850) at $2.59 each. That comes to just $10.36 plus tax for one completed interconnect set. You can use your favorite termination from some other manufacturer if you like, but chose wisely. I whole-heatedly believe in keeping the mass down, because of the relatively low current involved, and I prefer the simplest plating scheme I can find for the same reason. I chose the gold plated units in order to keep similar surface to surface contact metals. Since my pre amp uses gold plated inputs, this was the best choice for reducing oxidation and other pollutant build up over time.

Another thing I decided to do differently from past attempts was to use 2" wide clear packing tape from 3M fashioned from polyurethane (a very good dielectric) to hold the wires a consistent distance from one an other. In past experiments, I have just let them hang loose (BAD idea) or braided them. The braiding yields decent results, but not what you will hear from the following construction.

To start your cables, measure out four lengths of wire which correspond to the final running length of the cable you wish to produce. I will tell you that longer runs will likely require the assistance of a helper to assemble, as managing the wire and tape at distances over about six feet is a challenge. Using a knife (or a chemical made specifically to remove the coating on the cable), carefully scrape away the enamel from about 1/4" to 1/2" from the end of each wire. Using a silver content solder if possible (like Radio Shack Cat. No. 64-013), solder the ends to the first of the gold plated RCA terminations. MAKE SURE to thread the strain relief coil and cover onto your wires BEFORE you do your soldering, other wise, you’ll end up having do desolder everything to get them on.

Once you have attached both plus and minus wires to the first plug end, hold them up and apart (about 1/4") while you apply a narrow, long piece of the packing tape (about 1/2' wide and 2" long) up the running length of both wires. This is done to act as a bit of strain relief and to keep them about 1/4" apart inside the jacket. Adjust the length of the wires so they are just right to run parallel when soldered to the other jack, then finish the second end identically to the first. You now have one half of your stereo pair. Do it again, and your ready to move on.

Take a length of your 2" wide packing tape about 3 or 4 inches shorter than the desired finished running length of your interconnect, and lay it STICKY SIDE UP on a table or counter top where you have room to work. If necessary, use a small strip of tape (applied at the center of each end of the upside down length) to hold it to your work surface and keep the length from moving. Now, carefully lay ONE END of your first pair of finished conductors onto the sticky surface of the tape on your work surface. Starting with one conductor about 1/4" from the outer most edge of the length of tape, and it's partner at least 1/4" away from it, carefully place the wires down in a parallel pair the entire length of the tape. This is easily achieved by running the pair between your thumb and forefinger to maintain the distance between them as you attach them to the tape. Do the same thing with the second finished pair of conductors for the second run on the opposite edge of the upside down tape. This will leave about an inch of tape between the two closest conductors of each running pair. All that is left to do is apply a second equal length of 2" wide packing tape, STICKY SIDE DOWN, over the sticky piece with the conductors and you have a manageable, yet low involvement dielectric patch cord. Let’s jam.

WOW! When I inserted the first of these magnet wire home brew interconnects, which I dubbed "Signal Tape", into my system (between my "groovy" sounding DAC and my pre amp) the digital system was transformed! I found it hard to believe that they totally slaughtered my expensive silver-plated, OFHC copper conductor, tubular wound jobbies that cost about $300 a set! But it wasn't even close!

More inner detail, more dynamics, more accurate timbre, tighter focus, more controlled bass, better extension, deeper and wider soundstage - and a quieter back ground! Go figure! The only real concern I had about implementing these cables was their potential susceptibility to EMI and RF because they weren't shielded. This is something to consider carefully before construction if you live near a radio transmitter or have some other high RF environment. For most applications, you shouldn’t have any problems. They were quieter than the heavily shielded "big buck" cables I had been using - even on my phono input! Dead silent with no signal applied! You pick a category; they bested anything I had to play with by a county mile!

Time to try out silver! My listening to good silver interconnects (read expensive) indicated that they deserved a try. I phoned Myron Toback, Inc. in NYC (212/398-8300), purveyors of high quality solid silver wire. I ordered up 220 feet of 30 gauge solid silver for my experiments. Why 220 feet you may ask? Because they have a minimum order requirement, and that is how much it took at that gauge to hit that minimum. The total, with shipping, $23.10! As this wire was un-insulated, I called Allied Electronics (800/433-5700) and ordered up a 100' spool of PTFE (high grade Teflon) tubing in the proper size (stock number 708-4926 at $20.93) to insulate my new solid (not sterling) silver 30 AWG wire.

I experimented with insulating the entire run in the PTFE sleeve, but I ended up just choosing to insulate the ends where the wire is soldered to the RCA jack. Feeding the wire through the Teflon is a bitch, even with lubrication. If you decide to do this, you can use a virgin olive oil or, better yet, something like CAIG LABS ProGold. The finished cable is also very stiff and unruly. I settled on EXACTLY the same construction technique as described above (sans removing the enamel at the conductor’s ends because there is none).

UNBELIEVABLE! The improvement with these cables, dubbed "Silver Signal Tape" or SST's for short, over the magnet wire, although not as large in scope as the transition from my old cables to the magnet wire versions, was awesome! The overall smoothness was significantly increased. There was a bit more extension and ease in the high frequencies. This had been an area of some concern to me, as some of my previous experience with some of the lesser silver interconnects had left me worried about a brightness and harshness in this area. This undesirable attribute gratefully had not materialized in the slightest. Dynamics and transients were now staggering, way overtaking that of the magnet wire! And the most vital difference overall between the copper and the silver to me was the utter control exhibited in the bass department! Not more bass, but deeper, more detailed, faster and more controlled bass. I had never experienced this kind of control before in my system, with any interconnect.

If the significance of the enhancement noted in moving from my old "big buck" interconnects to the home brew magnet wire interconnects was represented by a ten, the move from the magnet wire to the "SST's" was another four and a half to five. You have got to try this out for yourself to believe the sonic benefits! If you are familiar with my work, you know how I feel about both saving money AND getting your hands on this hobby/sport/disease we affectionately call audio. These "SST's" give you nearly all the taste of the "higher priced spreads" for about $20 a set and an hour's labor with a soldering Iron. Folks, these wires EASILY compete with stuff that costs $500+ a set, NO BULL! What more can you ask for?

One of the publishers of another magazine said that the only interconnects he had heard recently that he liked better than the magnet wire interconnects would cost more than a week on Cape Cod! Do these solid silver baby’s sound better than anything costing less than a week on Grand Cayman? Let me know what you hear.

...Greg Weaver
gregw@soundstage.com


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J@ck
SR40
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註冊時間: 週日 3月 28, 2004 2:27 pm

文章palchiu 發表於 週六 2月 12, 2005 2:47 am

多謝J@ck兄, 今年光線材DIY就有得玩了!
耳機新手 ><" Ultra Low-Fi靜電系統使用中
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palchiu
SR125
SR125
 
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註冊時間: 週日 12月 19, 2004 1:20 pm


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